This is a thoroughly modern example of the scarce Chronomètre Souverain Black Label*. The 40mm platinum case is paired with an attractive matte black dial with mirror-polished, applied Arabic indices. The marine chronometre style reserve indicator registers 56 hours of power that the twin barrels of the manual wind calibre 1304 produce. The movement, fashioned from 18k rose gold is visible through the display caseback. This watch, which was first retailed in Tokyo in 2022, is accompanied by its special Black Label paperwork.

The Chronomètre Souverain Black Label is one of the rarest expressions of the line. Produced in very limited numbers, the series is made available only to existing clients of the brand through Journe boutiques around the world. Only a couple of F.P. Journe’s lines are picked every year to feature a small number of Black Label examples.

This particular watch, that was retailed in Tokyo in 2022, is one of the latest examples of this limited series. It features special paperwork from the brand (signed by Journe), designating it as such.

The more modern, 40mm platinum case is just 8.8mm thick. It’s three parts are marked by the rounded bezel and caseback that protrude slightly beyond the midcase. All parts wear evenly high polishing. The flat crown features the rope motif that is the brand’s signature. The lugs are short and curve down quite dramatically, reducing the overall footprint of the watch face. The caseback, secured by the six holt head screws, features details such as the brand mark and motto, product line, precious metal hallmark and details as well as the serial number, all engraved on.

The white metal of the case pairs very well with the matte black of the dial. While earlier variants featured a guilloché centre, this features a pared back aesthetic that was an evolution of the line. Similarly, while earlier examples had embossed white numerals, later examples such as this one wear applied Arabic indices that are high polished. Around it runs a chemin de fer chapter of minutes. At 3 o’clock is the marine chronometre-style indicator that registers 56 hours since the movement was fully wound. Between 7 and 8 o’clock is the subsidiary seconds register that mirrors the dial layout.

The manual winding calibre 1304, visible through the sapphire of the exhibition caseback, is made from 18k rose gold. The view is dominated by the twin mainspring barrels, arranged vertically. They work together to provide a consistent delivery of power over the 56 hours of reserve. The balance is adjusted in six positions, one more than chronometric standards require. The free-sprung architecture of the balance makes it resistant to shocks. In between the bridges, that feature Côtes de Genève that lines up perfectly and delicate anglage, the drive train is concealed by a plate that wears radial finishing with the “Chronomètre Souverain” engraved on it. The baseplate features beautiful perlage.

On the bridge straddling the barrels are engraved details such as the brand mark and motto, as well as its jewel count and the precious metal the movement is crafted from.

The watch comes with a black alligator strap with curved ends and is secured by a signed, platinum pin buckle. Accompanying the watch is the exhibition case as well as its Black Label paperwork.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Black Label will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Black Label Chronomètre Souverain is in excellent condition. The watch has been well cared for, showing virtually no signs of wear, aside from the faint hairlines typically found on the surface of platinum cases. The watch is unopened from new, and therefore the dial, hands and movement remain as they were when they left the factory.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from F. P. Journe.